Brigitte Bardot: The Woman Who Invented Saint-Tropez and Liberated Fashion
von Eva Winterer
Brigitte Bardot: The Woman Who Invented Saint-Tropez and Liberated Fashion
The Taste and Eroticism of Authenticity: How Brigitte Bardot Defied Convention to Create a Timeless Cultural Identity.
von Eva Winterer
The film, fashion, and cultural worlds mourn Brigitte Bardot, who passed away on December 28, 2025, at the age of 91. In an industry dictated by fleeting trends and glamour constraints, Bardot charted her own course, merging eroticism with naturalness in a style that was profoundly personal. Her influence cannot be separated from her multifaceted career as an actress, her political engagement, and her uncompromising commitment to animal welfare. Bardot didn't just wear clothes—she demonstrated that fashion is an extension of one's identity.
A Style Without Compromise
Bardot never chased trends. Born in 1934 in Paris, she cultivated a look entirely her own: the Bardot neckline that exposed both shoulders, wild blonde hair, gingham checks and striped shirts, ballet flats instead of high heels. When she played a sexually liberated woman in a small fishing village in Roger Vadim's 1956 film "And God Created Woman" (Et Dieu Créa La Femme), not only did the film become scandalous—her wardrobe revolutionized the very notion of what femininity could be.
The decisive moment was precisely this 1957 film. Bardot's bikini on Pampelonne Beach made the two-piece swimsuit socially acceptable across Europe. Her preference for wide necklines established the "Bardot line"—a sensual exposure of neck and shoulders that remains a fundamental element of fashion to this day. Coco Chanel described Bardot's influence on fashion as "inimitable." Young women worldwide began incorporating bright colors, figure-hugging silhouettes, and above all, a new casualness into their wardrobes.
Bardot didn't create her look in a vacuum. She drew inspiration from women on New York's streets, wore menswear with feminine lightness, and paired Saint Laurent tuxedos with bare feet. Unlike her Hollywood peers who followed seasonal dictates, Bardot rejected conformity. She wore pants to award ceremonies, leopard print while shopping, and her famous Repetto ballet flats to formal occasions. Her aesthetic—neutral tones, structured fabrics, dramatic silhouettes—felt both classic and rebellious, minimalist yet bold.
This aesthetic remained remarkably consistent over decades. Core elements included suits, turtlenecks, wide belts, and hats, mostly in a black-and-white palette. This uniform was both personal trademark and expression of a clear position. Fashion designer Anne Fontaine celebrates her as a "rare breed" who politicized fashion by challenging gender norms. Bardot's influence echoes in contemporary designers like The Row and Phoebe Philo, who channel her understated rebellion. Her legacy? Proof that style isn't trend-driven—it's personality made visible.
From Personal Style to Brand Power
This clear brand identity enabled Bardot to transfer her aesthetic vision to other business fields. Her name became synonymous with relaxed elegance, and she used this strategically. Shoe designer Rose Repetto created the legendary "BB ballerina," also called Cinderella, at Bardot's request—the first Repetto creation intended for everyday wear, which Bardot wore daily. "She was the spark that started it all," explained Jean-Marc Gaucher, current CEO of Repetto. "People wanted the same product as her. She became a symbol of women's emancipation."
Later, she developed a collection of lingerie, swimwear, and sleepwear under the "Brigitte Bardot Lingerie" label, inspired by historical models. Her collaboration with fashion designer Jean Bouquin shaped her hippie era of the late 1960s. "The one who knew better than anyone how to dress me, to crumple me, to show me off, to disguise me, to strip me, to sexualize me, to adorn me and to confuse me," she wrote about Bouquin. "Jean covered me with 'scarf-dresses,' Indian 'mini-maxis,' Afghan chains, 'pants-skirts' in soft and tangy colors."
Brigitte Bardot's legacy is thus more than a collection of iconic outfits. She provided proof that an uncompromisingly personal vision can form a powerful and economically viable brand. By resisting industry pressure, she became an influential force herself, inspiring both consumers and designers like Ralph Lauren, Yves Saint Laurent, and Thom Browne.
The Creation of Saint-Tropez
Before Brigitte Bardot walked across Pampelonne Beach in the 1956 film "And God Created Woman," Saint-Tropez was a sleepy Provençal fishing village visited mainly by artists painting the mystical Mediterranean light. After the film, the place transformed almost overnight into the Saint-Tropez we know today: intensely glamorous, full of celebrities, debauchery, and spraying champagne bottles.
Bardot's parents owned "La Saravia," a holiday home drowning in vegetation and flowers on Rue de la Miséricorde, and Brigitte came there as a child to spend carefree moments with the family. In 1958, while visiting "La Madrague," a house for sale on the waterfront near Canebiers beach, Brigitte fell in love immediately and bought it. From then on, La Madrague became the scene of grandiose parties that made headlines in Parisian newspapers. Sacha Distel, Alain Delon, Jean-Paul Belmondo, and many others stayed there.
The small hut that served as an improvised canteen for the film crew of "And God Created Woman" became the famous Club 55, a true institution and one of the most popular private beaches on the French Riviera. Bardot romanticized holiday travels to the Côte d'Azur, and Saint-Tropez became the timeless symbol of Mediterranean lifestyle. To this day, Saint-Tropez remains inseparable from Bardot's golden aura.
Both on screen and in her personal life, she favored stripes, classic sailor-style shirts, and capri pants representative of the fishing town. This resulted in the so-called Riviera style, which became a genuine trend—one that was popular not only in the 1960s but has stood the test of time. Her influence on Saint-Tropez was transformative and lasting. As one writer put it: "God may have created woman, but Brigitte Bardot created Saint-Tropez."
Artist and Icon
While fashion was Bardot's signature, her career extended far beyond it. As a trained ballet dancer, she transitioned to acting via modeling after gracing the cover of Elle at age 15. Her acting prowess earned her international recognition in films like "The Truth" (La Vérité, 1960), where she played a young woman on trial, "Contempt" (Le Mépris, 1963) by Jean-Luc Godard, in which she portrayed the wife of a screenwriter alongside Michel Piccoli, and "Viva Maria!" (1965) with Jeanne Moreau.
Throughout her career, she appeared in over 40 films and worked with directors like Roger Vadim, Louis Malle, and Jean-Luc Godard. She also pursued a singing career, collaborating with artists like Serge Gainsbourg, with whom she recorded seductive, playful chansons like "Harley Davidson." Her music, like her screen presence, was flirtatious, free-spirited, and undeniably French.
Bardot's personal life added complexity to her public persona. Married four times—to Roger Vadim, Jacques Charrier, Gunter Sachs, and Bernard d'Ormale—and mother to one son, Nicolas-Jacques Charrier, she maintained intense relationships that fueled tabloid interest. Yet Bardot always maintained uncompromising privacy. On the eve of her fortieth birthday in 1973, she announced the definitive end of her career and the beginning of another life, wise, discreet bordering on invisibility, entirely dedicated to protecting animals.
The Second Life: Animal Welfare as Life's Mission
As early as 1962, Bardot was the first celebrity in France to publicly denounce cruel methods of slaughtering animals after seeing photographs of the conditions in which animals were killed. She immediately became vegetarian and began advocating against the use of painful electric shock pistols in slaughterhouses. In 1967, Bardot was received at the Élysée Palace where she met with Charles de Gaulle, then president of France. A few years later, Bardot obtained "stunning before slaughter" rights from the government.
In 1977, she traveled to the Canadian sea ice to raise awareness about the massacre of baby seals. Shocking images marked an entire generation, and she obtained a ban on trading their fur. In 1986, Brigitte Bardot founded her foundation, to which she donated La Madrague to ensure its sustainability. The foundation was recognized as a public utility organization in 1992, receiving this recognition from the Conseil d'État. In 1995, the Dalai Lama became an honorary member of the foundation.
Today, the Fondation Brigitte Bardot has more than 70,000 donors in over 70 countries and over 280 investigators and volunteer representatives. The foundation operates four animal shelters in France housing over 7,000 rescued animals and neuters over 12,000 stray cats annually. It has helped create shelters for elephants in South Africa, koalas in Australia, dancing bears in Bulgaria, and primates in Cameroon. It has also reintroduced several animal species that had completely disappeared in Senegal and participated in the reintroduction of wolves to the Alps.
From La Madrague, Bardot fought actively and relentlessly even in her later years against animal abuse and abandonment, and her interventions with national and European authorities were not in vain. "I gave my beauty and youth to men, I give my wisdom and experience to animals," she once declared. A source reported in early 2025: "She spends hours a day writing letters on behalf of her beloved animals, wild and domestic. That's what keeps her strong and motivated. She doesn't have time to slow down."
Controversy and Complexity
Bardot's life, however, was not free from controversy. Her often impulsive statements on ritual slaughter and France's immigration policy led to her being fined multiple times for inciting racial hatred. Her husband Bernard d'Ormale was campaign advisor for Jean-Marie Le Pen of the far-right Front National party, and Bardot used her voice to campaign against the rise of Islam in France and against halal animal slaughter.
These positions tarnished her legacy and reveal the complexity of a person who fought for animal rights but whose political views became increasingly polarizing. Bardot lived for years as something of a recluse at La Madrague—it's said she hasn't been spotted in the Saint-Tropez port area for many years. Though hidden, the former actress was anything but silent, and her activities remained until the end a mixture of admirable commitment and problematic statements.
A Lasting Legacy
Brigitte Bardot's death leaves a void, but her legacy endures as a blueprint for authentic living. In fashion, she taught us that style is self-expression, not submission to trends—a lesson rooted in her unwavering personal vision. Beyond that, her career as artist and activist demonstrates the power of multifaceted lives. She was a style icon, yes, but also a trailblazer who normalized eccentricity, championed personal freedom, and subtly shaped cultural conversations.
Designers might recreate her looks—oversized hats, bold belts, wide skirts—but her true gift was permission: to be authentic, to evolve without apology. Bardot transformed a sleepy fishing village into a global icon of luxury, democratized the bikini, invented the Bardot neckline, and showed generations of women that beauty and freedom can go hand in hand.
Her second life as an animal rights activist, though shadowed by controversy, reveals a woman who used her fame to speak for those who have no voice. The Fondation Brigitte Bardot remains one of Europe's most influential animal welfare organizations, and her impact on animal protection legislation is undeniable. To this day, over 70,000 people worldwide have supported her work, and her four animal shelters provide homes for thousands of creatures.
In a world of fast fashion and fleeting fame, Brigitte Bardot was timeless. She proved that personal style can have economic power, that beauty can take many forms, and that a life lived by one's own rules is the greatest legacy of all. The beaches of Saint-Tropez, the fashion runways, and the animal shelters she supported—all still bear the traces of this extraordinary woman.
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